Beginner Lessons in Washington

Washington's surf is cold, remote, and mostly empty, the opposite of the crowded, sun-warmed breaks people picture. The waves sit along the rugged western edge of the Olympic Peninsula and run south toward the mouth of the Columbia River, backed by dark evergreen forest and fed by North Pacific swell. Westport, La Push, and Ocean Shores are the main jumping-off points, and between them you'll find everything from mellow beach breaks to point and reef setups that punish a mistake.

The appeal here is the wildness, solitude and raw coastline that come with the waves. The water stays cold all year, so a thick wetsuit, booties, gloves, and a hood are standard kit even in July. The trade for the chill is reliability: fall and winter in particular deliver steady swell for anyone prepared to meet it. Surf schools and independent coaches cluster where the access is easiest, mainly Westport and Ocean Shores, teaching newcomers how to handle this kind of coast.